A Day Trip from Paris to Épernay- the Champagne Capital of France
With buttery flakes of croissant still lingering in the corners of our mouths, we jump up from our cafe table and scuttle to the train station. We stare at the large screen while cities blink one by one, looking for our track number. Finally, we see our stop: Épernay. We head to the tracks and wait for our train. Soon it comes barreling through and we board, settling into our seats (me by the window, of course). We are halfway through our trip to France and, having spent the last few days marveling at the beauty of Paris, we are ready for our day trip to Épernay- land of Champagne. I watch giddily through the window as the French countryside flashes by. Nearing the end of October, the ride is stunning- red, yellow, and green dance across the landscape, the flashy colors hinting at winter just around the bend- but not yet! After about an hour, our train squeaks to a halt in Épernay.
Épernay is best known for “Champagne Avenue”- where famous champagne houses like Moët and Mercier hold their prestigious bubbly. We stroll along the avenue, ogling at the opulence of all of the champagne houses. On the left side, we see wrought iron fences with specks of gold trim enclosing a traditional stone mansion. On the right, a fancy driveway leads to an elegant structure with two custom 1940s coach cars parked out front. “Bozier” is printed in large font on the black double door entrance. Underneath these remarkable champagne houses are networks of tunnels that store the best champagne in the world.
As we walk, I imagine all of the bottles of champagne stored under our feet. We continue down the avenue, and one house catches my eye: Perrier- Jouet Boutique. The door is open, and I can see a stunning green bar in the center of the room. Above the bar, Perrier-Jouet Belle Epoque bottles hang in an art installation, adorned with elegant white flowers. We order some cocktails from the bar and sip them in the courtyard at the front of the building- lounging on posh patio furniture. After our drink and a look around the mansion, we continue on.
Nearing the end of our stroll down the avenue, we discover “Champagne de Castellane”; an impressive red and tan stone tower makes this particular champagne house stand out. It is here that we decide to do a tour of the champagne cellar. We descend the steps into the massive, chilly cellar with our knowledgeable guide. We listen with wide eyes as she explains to us the tedious production process; I begin to have a whole new appreciation and understanding of champagne and the “double fermentation” process. We end the private tour with a tasting, clinking our glasses and sipping happily. Book a tour at this fabulous champagne house here.
As we leave Castellane, we catch a taxi to Hautvillers. This quaint village is nestled into the countryside and proves to be a quiet, picturesque surprise. Vineyards are abundant here, and in late October they shine bright with yellow and green. We enjoy ratatouille at “Au 39” cafe and stroll through the village. On our walk, we come across an unassuming church named Saint-Sindulphe and view the spot where Dom Perignon himself is buried. We are the only ones in the church; we are shocked that there are no crowds. It feels like we are the only ones in all of Hautvillers! Ivy creeps up the sides of the charming buildings and the sun shines down on the vineyards, giving the town a storybook feel.
Thirsty from exploring, we head to nearby “G.Tribaut” for another champagne tasting. We taste sweet, dry, and rose champagnes while gazing through the windows at the rolling vineyards below.
With our day coming to a close, we taxi back to Épernay. While we wait for our train, we order an appetizer of Camembert cheese and potatoes at a nearby cafe. It comes out warm and soft, perfect for dipping. Now on carb overload, we sleep the whole ride back to Paris, dreams of gooey French cheese and bubbly champagne dancing in our heads. Au revoir, Épernay! You were an absolute treat.
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