Markets and Mosques: An Afternoon in Istanbul, Turkey
Turkey is an anomaly..so close in proximity to other European cities yet so different culturally. In Rome, church bells ring out in the distance. Catholics genuflect on one knee and make the sign of the cross. In Istanbul, the call to prayer lingers in the air while Muslims roll out their prayer mats. The architecture, food, and customs are in a league of their own, worlds away from the rest of Europe.
The year is 2016 and I am studying abroad in Italy. I board the plane precariously as I fly solo to Istanbul. I am meeting my friend Kieran, who lives and studies in this historic Turkish city. Luckily for me, Kieran has acclimated well to living abroad, and he speaks perfect Turkish. I am delighted to see a familiar face as we catch up over coffee and smoke hookah in a tiny cafe. It is here that I am introduced to Turkish coffee- a very strong, very dark blend of gritty black liquid. Kieran tells me that Turkish coffee can tell your fortune. When I finish drinking, I peer into the bottom of my cup. “What do you see?” he asks. I stare at the grounds of coffee sticking to the sides and bottom of the glass. My imagination runs wild; first I see sloping mountains, then perhaps an elephant? “I’m not sure” I reply. We chalk it up to meaning some type of good luck, and that my trip to Istanbul will be a happy one.
The next day, I am left to my own devices as Kieran heads off to class. With his help, I have an exciting day planned for myself. I wake early, and head straight to the Grand Bazaar. Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar is one of the world’s largest and oldest covered markets. There are thousands of vendors selling everything from lamps to rugs to sweets. I meander my way through the maze of market stalls. “Miss, come look” shouts one vendor. “No, this way!” shouts another. I buy a piece of Turkish delight and savor the sweetness- to my surprise it is filled with pistachios, adding a delicious nutty crunch. I spend some time looking at scarves and smelling spices. My senses are overloaded with sounds and sights. Bartering is expected at the bazaar, but I am not very good. I decide simply to observe and walk through instead, which is just as fun.
Next, I head to an iconic stop on my tour: Hagia Sophia. This mosque is over 1600 years old and has gone through many changes throughout the years. Today, it is a UNESCO World Heritage site and is free to enter. The inside is grand; light shines through the domes, illuminating the mosaic tiles and marble columns. Eight disks bearing special gold inscriptions written in Arabic hang on the walls above me. Chandeliers hang impressively from the ceiling- and a regal looking cat meows at my feet. Istanbul is a city full of cats; they treat them very well, making shelters and putting out food to keep them safe. I snapped a picture; I think to myself that in a past life this cat was a sultan.
Across the way is another iconic mosque- Blue Mosque, otherwise known as Sultan Ahmed Mosque. This mosque is my favorite due to its towering minarets and impressive architecture. I see people going to worship, men and women entering from their respective sides. Non-Muslims are only allowed in certain areas. I wear my headscarf to make sure I am respectful and peer into the awe-inspiring rooms. Intricate blue tiles adorn the ceilings and arches. These styles and patterns are very foreign to me; I find it very beautiful.
After visiting the mosques, I walk down the alleyways, peering into shops and admiring the intricately decorated plates and mugs on display in the windows. I purchase a few hand-painted plates that I plan to put on display when I am back in my own apartment. I come across a rug shop and the owner ushers me inside. Although he is a little pushy in trying to sell me the rugs, I learn a lot too. He shows me all of his many designs, and even brings me upstairs to introduce me to the men and women working on the looms. One man is weaving a picture of the last supper into a large rug. He explains that there are thousands and thousands of threads making up each rug, and they are all done by hand. I am offered some mint tea, and through the window of the rug shop the Blue Mosque is visible. I sneak a quick picture from the window, which turns out to be my favorite photo I take in all of Istanbul. I do end up buying a small rug to take back with me, which now adorns my closet floor, its bright red threads reminding me of my trip each time I pass it.
By this time, I am famished. I look for a dish recommended by Kieran: ÇITIR BİHTER. That is the name of it on the menu. It is basically a slightly fried Turkish ravioli filled with minced meat and served over yogurt sauce. The filling is so savory and flavorful. These delicious little dumplings can also be called Manti. I end up adoring this dish and set out to find many variations during my stay. Sometimes they put a garlicky sauce on top, other times paprika and butter. Each and every time it is delicious.
In the evening, I enjoy another dish- Iskender. Iskender consists of shaved kebab meat over a bed of pita. Red sauce is poured over the top of the dish, and it is finished off with a drizzle of yogurt. The flavors- spicy sauce, savory meat, refreshing yogurt- are all combined in perfect harmony.
The next few days are filled with more mint tea, mosques, a boat ride down the Bosphorus, and even a trip to Kadikoy, a trendy neighborhood on the Asian side of the city.
Istanbul feels magical and exotic. It is so different from the rest of Europe, and I head to the airport already dreaming of my return. The mosques, bazaars, and cuisine leave me wanting more from this interesting country. We can help you plan your Istanbul dream trip here.
