The Best Seafood in Split, Croatia
“What was the best thing you have ever eaten?”... What a loaded question. In this world there are so many phenomenal foods; each country offers something unique, delicious, and different. How can a person choose? For us at least, the most vivid memories from our travels always end up being food related. While we have eaten at many restaurants, street markets, and food stands over the years, one meal in particular stood a notch above the rest.
It was a hazy September afternoon and we had just arrived in Split, Croatia after a 5-hour drive from Dubrovnik. We were hot and tired, and, of course, starving. As we walked down the narrow cobblestone streets toward our Airbnb, our stomachs twisted with hunger. “I can’t wait any longer.” I finally said. “How about here?” pointed Luis. I followed his gaze to a small, unassuming little spot.
A single person sat under the restaurant's blue awning-an old man, wrinkled from years in the sun, smoking a cigarette. There were 4 little bistro tables outside facing a beautiful stone piazza. The tables were covered in red and white checkered tablecloths. Nothing about this place was fancy, but it felt authentic, welcoming, and warm. We opted for an inside table, as the heat was starting to make us delirious. We descended a few stairs into a sunken dining area with a little wooden bar. Pictures hung on the walls of Croatia’s beautiful coastline. Black and white photos of old men smiling from boats with the day's latest catch made me think the restaurant’s owners might have come from a long line of fishermen.
Immediately we ordered 2 of the local beers. The first taste was heaven.. crisp and cold, an oasis after walking what felt like miles from the port. Our glasses sat side by side on the table. It was like his and hers, which made us laugh.
We asked the friendly waiter what he recommended. He told us in a heavy Croatian accent to try a fish dish as everything was fresh and local. We ordered anchovies and sardines, which each came with a side of potatoes and swiss chard in a lemony sauce. The sardines came out so fat and meaty that they alone would have filled us up. Having only seen the ones in tin cans half that size, I was baffled by how huge they were. They were grilled to perfection and melted in my mouth like butter. Luis snacked on fried white fish, which provided the perfect salty crunch to go with his Karlovacko (Croatian brand) beer. The anchovies were fileted on a plate and displayed beautifully with fresh olives and ripe red tomatoes. We devoured every morsel and sat speechless at our table, taking it all in. Our server was so proud that we loved all of his recommendations, and we could tell he took pride in his work. We vowed to come back again and said we would see him soon.
Staying true to our promise, we came back the next evening after a long day of swimming. It was rare for us to go to the same restaurant twice. Once again, we were ravenous. This time, we sat outside. The heat of the day had come and gone, and the fresh evening air was rejuvenating. We ordered some house red wine, and sipped it slowly while we looked at the view of the piazza. This little cove was quiet, tucked away from the hustle and bustle of the historic city center. As we looked around and listened, we noticed that it seemed like mostly locals eating here this evening. Old men laughed and yelled; couples snuggled up and chatted in low tones. This little gem in Split was turning out to be our favorite part of the city.
This time, Luis and I went all out. We ordered grilled squid, anchovies, and sea bass. They came with the typical delicious sides- potatoes and grilled Swiss chard in a lemony, buttery sauce that I could’ve drank all by itself. The fish was cooked perfectly, it flaked off in sweet chunks that melted in our mouths; chewing was hardly necessary. The anchovies were plump and lightly dressed in vinegar. So far it was all incredible, but the star of that night’s show was the grilled squid. The charred outside gave it a smoky flavor. So much care went into its preparation; it was not chewy but soft, cooked to perfection. There weren't many spices used, there was no need. A pinch of salt, lemon, and butter enhanced the natural, fresh flavor. I think at one point I felt tears in my eyes. How could something be this good? Many people will never be able to have the opportunity to taste this I thought to myself. It was making me emotional.
Our forks darted hungrily from plate to plate. While we tried to savor each dish as best we could, they were gone within what felt like seconds. We both agreed it was the best meal we ever had. As we sat there stuffed, I told Luis I wished I could go back in time and eat it all over again.
As we sat, filled to the brim with seafood and wine, I put my head on Luis’s shoulder. How lucky we were to have experienced this together. The waiter came by from time to time to check on us, but there was no rush. We were used to the New York restaurants pushing us out of our seats before we even had our last bites. They need to make room for the next set of diners. Always in a hurry, always about the money. Here, it was different. We took our time, as did everyone. It was not uncommon to stay chatting and drinking for hours after the meal was done. A true appreciation for food, dining, and time well spent.
If I could relive any day again, it would be that one. At that restaurant in Split, tucked away and local, sharing my love of food with the person I love the most. Croatia is a blessing for giving us that wonderful, delicious memory.
